Hackintosh WantsToPetYourKitty • 6 months ago • 100%

Hey folks, I've got a completely working, stable Ventura install on my AMD Ryzen 5, AM5 build. I built this PC back in September 2023, but at the time I only had enough funds for 32GB of DDR5. I had to go through this section of the Dortania guide extensively when I was first setting things up: https://dortania.github.io/OpenCore-Post-Install/universal/memory.html#mapping-our-memory If I were to add more RAM, would I need to go back through that entire section of the guide again? I'm assuming adding more RAM would affect my current memory map, correct?

Astrophotography WantsToPetYourKitty • 9 months ago • 100%

This was my very first attempt at planetary imaging with my SCT6. I've been doing EAA work for a few years now, but mostly DSOs through the use of a Hyperstar. Last night I removed the Hyperstar from the rig and made my first attempts at imaging at the native 1500mm focal length. This was a 5 minute video processed with lucky sampling.

I made a post previously on having [rot behind a soffit](https://lemmy.world/post/6721202) and many of you gave me great advice on how to proceed in fixing it the right way. This weekend I worked nonstop and got most of everything fixed. I removed part of soffit and cut the rafter tail to expose the area and quickly identified the problem - no kickout flashing  I cut out the rot on the sheathing and patched in plywood.  I ripped the siding off all the way up to the roof to expose all the step flashing - this involved removing both the vinyl siding and the original composite siding. Working from the bottom upwards, I laid down new house wrap. I fabricated a nice piece of kick flashing to go on the end of the run. Then I installed a nice piece of counter flashing over the step flash, then finally another layer of house wrap partially overlapping the cFlash.  I then installed pressure treated furring strips  for the vinyl siding and reinstalled the siding. Here's the siding going over my kickout flashing.  With that done I repaired the rafter tail and replaced all the rotten fascia board, then reinstalled the soffit vents. Now I'm in the process of installing drip edge before the gutter goes back. Due to poor roof installation, the underlayment doesn't extend down far enough to overlap my drip edge, so I'm having to cut 2.5" wide tarpaper strips and splice them in underneath the existing underlayment edge. That way the drip edge will be covered.

Hey folks, looking for some advice because I don't know how to proceed. This house came with vinyl siding and I noticed rot under it. The rot terminates up high behind where this soffit meets with the exterior wall. I need to get in here to figure out how water is getting in and then make necessary repairs, but the soffit is really in the way. I've already removed the rot lower down - I had to remove vinyl siding, a layer of foam board, a layer of rotten OSB, the original rotten siding, and the original rotten sheathing. All of those layers are still present behind this soffit. When I take the soffit vent off, there's a layer of OSB directly above it. Really don't know how to gain access here. Any ideas?

Hackintosh WantsToPetYourKitty • 1 year ago • 100%

Wanted to post an update as this thing is much more usable now: Running on Opencore 0.9.3 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 GPU: AMD Radeon 5700XT Sapphire Nitro+ RAM: Teamgroup Elite DDR5 2x16GB 4800MHz Motherboard/Laptop Make and Model: MSI Pro Series B650-P Audio Codec: ALC897 Layout=99 via AppleALC (incorrect layout but it's good enough for now) Ethernet Card: RTL8125 2.5Gbe Wifi/BT Card: Fenvi 1200M / BCM4360 BIOS revision: Mac Pro 7,1 Guide Used: Dortania What's working: Wifi, Sleep, Quartz Extreme, Audio line out & HDMI out, onboard APU (VESA only), all but one USB Port Whart isn't working: Bluetooth (need to remap USB ports but it's not a huge priority), NVRAM (Mobo NVRAM not natively supported and I couldn't even get emulated NVRAM to work. Dortania's guide isn't updated for OC 0.9.3 and his guide as it currently exists runs me into a dead end. Open to suggestions on fixing this! ) Any changes that were specific to your build that were a little (or a lot) different than what you found in the guide: Oh my god tons. - The B650-P is an absolute pig with the way it maps both memory and ACPI. In order to get it to even boot at all, DevirtualizeMMIO is a must. You will also need to generate memmap.txt to determine your KASLR slide value - They have a bot on the Hackintosh Discord that helps a lot with this. You will additionally need to create an MMIOWhiteList. Set EnableWriteUnprotector-> True, RebuildAppleMemoryMap -> True, SyncRunTimPermissions->Tue. All of this must be done to get reliable booting! - As for the Sapphire Nitro+ Radeon 5700XT - do yourself a favor: Take your WhateverGreen kext and throw it in the trash bin. It wasn't needed for the particular vBios that came on this card. Before I did that I always got a black screen no matter what boot-args I used. I booted without WEG and without any flags and it worked flawlessly. The dev for WEG can't seem to code for a debug log even though he claims WEG-dbg and Lilu-dbg kexts are capable of it. My advice is to generally run far away from any kexts that can't produce a debug log if you're trying to do a Ryzentosh without pulling your hair out. - The audio was a chore. You will need to add the ALC897 PCI info to DeviceProperties using Hackintool before AppleALC has a chance of recognizing it. - Onboard Mediatek wifi is unsupported but getting the addon 1200M to work was a breeze sans Bluetooth. Highly recommend this card. This is my first Hackintosh in 15 years - first ever AMD hack and I believe I may be one of the first to get a hack running on the B650-P hardware. This build took me about a month. I intend to use it for post-processing on my astrophotography images, among other things. It is rock-solid stable and even under stress tests the 5700XT performs well with no graphics crashing.

Hackintosh WantsToPetYourKitty • 1 year ago • 100%

I'm happy to report MacOS on 5th gen Ryzen5 is definitely doable. This is my first Hackintosh in 15 years - decided to try on a brand new AMD DDR5 system with Ryzen 5. Graphics are running on RDNAX iGPU with NootedRed. **Just** got this installed, stable, and booting last night. Still lots of work to do: - No graphics acceleration: I will be buying a compatible dGPU shortly. Not sure if NootedRed will support GA on AMD APU with RDNA, and really don't want to find out for stability reasons. Chefs kiss explicitly states RDNA APUs are currently not supported - No wifi: purchasing a compatible wifi adapter shortly - No sound: will need to patch AppleALC - All USB ports working without having to do anything - Sleep untested MUSTS for the B-650 system!!!!: - EnableWriteUnprotector -> False - RebuildAppleMemoryMap -> True - SyncRuntimePermissions -> True - Enable DevirtualizeMMIO and set KASLR slides per Dortania. Prevents the [EB] #LOG: EXITBS:START error in Opencore - Enable MMIOWhitelist and copy hexadecimal MMIO deviart addresses from Opencore logs. Prevents Kernel Panics for Invalid Frame Pointers on both shutdown and halfway through installation process (the latter does not log an error! You will just see the installer lock up). See Dortania troubleshooting guide I haven't seen any specific guides or posts for the B650-P Chipsets yet. I believe I may have been one of the first to accomplish a stable running example. I can send my Config.plist as a reference for anyone else attempting a Hackintosh on this platform. This installation is rock solid & stable with no KP's.

Just rolled into the shop WantsToPetYourKitty • 1 year ago • 100%

The chain sprocket here is supposed to rotate the keyed shaft below. At some point the 1/4" sq key came out. Instead of replacing the key, someone decided to try to just tighten the tiny set screw in the sprocket until it bottomed out on the keyway floor. It didn't end well and the keyway got trashed.  I cleaned up the keyway and installed a new key.  Then I milled a 1/4" slot into one half of a split shaft collar, and installed the collar over the part of the exposed key where the keyway in the shaft was damaged. Finally I installed a regular split shaft collar to butt against the end of the new key to keep it from backing out again. Final pic